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Reviews

When at new Glendale restaurant, you can ask the Magic 8-Ball which homestyle dishes to order
By Polly Campbell
The Cincinnati Enquirer

'Home cooking' is the most abused phrase in the restaurant business. It would seem that most owners of home-style restaurants come from homes where cooking means opening a can and defrosting a pie.

But I've found a new restaurant that really lives up to the phrase, serving the kind of food that a good home cook makes: simple but from scratch; humbly presented, with nice touches. It's Cristof's, which opened a few months ago in Glendale, occupying the space that was the Tearoom at Glendale.

Cristof's is now bottling Our Creamy Champagne Garlic Dressing Creamy Champagne Garlic Dressing $4.00

Kathleen Muhsam, the owner, was the pastry chef at the Tearoom. She serves European-inspired homey dishes and excellent desserts. Like at home, not everything always turns out, and the service is not especially professional, but the great saving grace of Cristof's is the cost: no $16 chicken here. Everything's between $8 and $12.

The ambience is cozy and quirky, less feminine than the Tearoom and decorated with an eclectic collection of antiques and bric-a-brac. The ceiling is tin. Lighting is provided by a collection of unmatched chandeliers.

The front room looks out onto the street, while the back room offers the seclusion of high-backed booths. There are pieces of carousel art, including a dragon bench. Prints of Indian chiefs share wall space with paintings of Wagnerian characters. Every table has a Magic 8-Ball, which comes in handy when deciding what to order.
Salad 'outlook good'

Should we start with a salad? I consult the 8-Ball on my first visit. ''Outlook good,'' it says, and it's right. The salad's fresh and crispy, not overdressed, sprinkled with real bacon and chopped egg. Fabulous little crusty yeast rolls are served tucked into a linen napkin.

Is the Hungarian goulash good? ''Answer not clear. Ask again later,'' is the 8-Ball's reply, but I don't have time for that. I take my chances. When the goulash comes, it's a moderate amount of chunky beef stew with a paprika sauce on good, tender noodles ($9.99). It's not assertively spiced, but it's rich and satisfying.

Eggplant Parmesan ($9.99) is certainly homemade, with layers of eggplant that's not deep-fried, a light sauce and just enough cheese to hold it together.

'To-go-for' desserts

Do not bother consulting the 8-Ball about whether to get dessert ($3.25). Just do it, particularly if banana cream pie is listed. It's wonderful, with swirls of real whipped cream, a crumbly crust, fresh custard, lots of bananas and the addition of crunchy almonds.

Mock turtle soup starts the meal off right. It has the correct distinctive sweet-sour tang, not the vinegary harshness of other versions.

The cabbage rolls, stuffed with beef and rice and covered with sauerkraut ($9.99), are not dazzling, but they're honest. The cod in puff pastry, served with a nutmeg-tinged spinach sauce, is a nod to the former ladylike dishes of the Tearoom. A cheeseburger with fries ($7.99) is thick and char-broiled.

The side dishes are good, even though sweeter than I usually like. The corn pudding is light and souffle-like and the whipped sweet potatoes are served with a sweet crust.

Then a tiramisu ($3.99) that actually stands out from the crowd: Dense, cheesy and soaked in espresso, it's dreamy.

Best Touch of Old Europe
http://www.best-of-cincinnati.com/bestof2001/eatsstaff.htm

Cristof's, where they serve a menu full of German and Middle European dishes, such as sauerbraten, goulash and stuffed peppers, as well as a mean shepherd's pie. Cristof's, 16 Village Square, Glendale, 513-772-4300.